Depending on where they find themselves, pre-transfer treatment differs slightly for each strawberry plant. Overall, minimize the stress of replanting as much as possible.
For this to happen, make sure the strawberries are not sickly or dry. A healthy strawberry plant has dark green leaves on strong stalks, which will appear stiff yet flexible. Hydration is very important to maintain this form.
If the strawberries are potted, pour some water until it runs out the bottom of the pot and then leave them in the shade. Don't transplant immediately, because the soil will be too soggy. And if handled at this point, the roots risk exposure or harm during the transfer. The plants also need ample time to drink their fill.
Strawberries growing in the garden need a closer eye. Where potted strawberries can be left until the next day, one must gauge when a garden batch is hydrated and ready. Usually, it is best to choose a mild day, then water in the morning and wait for the soil to look firm but moist. Again, this will make extraction safer.
When roots are damaged, any plant risks death. The best way to preserve root dignity is to keep them in a clump of the original soil. This is why the soil cannot be too dry (the roots will snap when the plant is pulled) or too wet (the soil will slip off the roots instead of managing a protective clump).
This article will provide tips in each section on how best to treat the roots during extraction, whether you are switching pots or planting the strawberries directly into the ground.
After a few hours or the next day after a good soak, your strawberry is looking strong and the soil is clammy and solid.
If you're working with a single strawberry in a small pot, just tip it upside-down. Keep the plant between your fingers and prepare to catch it. Tap the bottom until the plant dislodges and slides out. While upside-down, gently break away most of the soil, but keep the roots inside an earthy ball.
Prepare the new pot by filling it with a good grade potting soil. When the plant's root ball rests on top of the soil and the strawberry is level with the pot's edge, then it's enough.
Fill up the rest of the space around the roots and gently press to even out the soil around the plant. Water carefully, and then place in a location where it receives indirect sunlight and is safe from the wind for at least a day.
When a strawberry is removed from the ground to a pot, much of the process remains the same. Once you have the plant in hand, you whittle a root ball, pot the strawberry, and give it some water. Removing it in the first place, however, requires more care.
Strawberries left to their own devices will populate the earth around them. Sometimes, when a long stalk touches the ground, it sprouts roots and develops a new plant. In this way, what often appears as multiple plants is actually a network of physically linked ones.
Pick the strawberry you wish to pot and using the sharp scissors, cut all the stalks linking it to others. In no way will this harm the plant.
Once free of the network, the strawberry is ready to be dug out. Take the small shovel and place the tip a few centimeters away from the stem. Too close and you risk harming the roots. The earlier soak should allow the shovel to penetrate deeply without much effort. Drive it down at an angle towards the plant. At one point, it should lift the plant when the shovel is pushed flat towards the surface. Continue to work like this until the strawberry can be removed.
If you wish to move your strawberries from one part of the garden to the other, then dislodge them in the same way as described above.
Simply dig a hole at the new location and add a little potting soil if you wish. Plant the strawberry, firm the ground around it, and water. Make sure that you don't move plants on a windy or hot day.
You're moving house and don't want to leave your outdoors strawberries behind. Maybe you sold or gifted a few, and you know the new owner wants them in their own garden. Either way, sometimes strawberries need to be transported, and new pots are a waste if the plants are destined for a vegetable garden.
You can use plastic bags instead. Go for the type that is already on the small and narrow side. Those with the perfect shapes include bags that once held a loaf of bread or fruit. Basically, any temporary vessel can be used since you don't need to make holes at the bottom (you'll see in a moment why).
If you don't have a store of baggies, use shallow Tupperware or even small bowls from the kitchen. If the plants are about to be sold, however, it's best to use plastic bags.
Temporary containers don't need a lot of soil. Just enough so that the root ball is covered, and it doesn't touch the bottom. Prepare a box beforehand and line it with newspaper or a refuge bag.
After planting each strawberry in a bag, place them in the box. Give each a little bit of water (don't soak), and if possible, let them stand overnight to recover and hydrate. If strawberries are kept in this way for a day or two before being transported, then no water holes are necessary.
Question: What are the advantages of transplanting strawberries?
Answer: As long as strawberries prosper, there are no advantages to moving the plants. However, when their pots become too small or overcrowded, then transplanting into bigger pots can boost their health. The same counts for a strawberry patch. These plants can procreate in a prolific manner. Too many together can cause competition for soil nutrients and sun (which affects the quality of the fruit). When strawberries are widely spaced, one can spot pests like snails more easily as well.
© 2018 Jana Louise Smit